 
Steve Smith "The Dirt Dude"
October 24th, 2011 Fall to-dos
Now is a great time to be in the garden and there are several important things you can be doing while you are out there. One thing to think about is if you wish to save your tropical plants for the winter. Things like bananas, palms, gardenias, citrus trees, etc, can be brought inside for the winter, but preparations should start now. Treat the soil with a systemic insect control to ward off insects long term and spray the foliage with an all purpose spray like Bayers 3 N 1 or All Seasons Horticultural Oil for immediate insect control. I also like to apply Sevin Dust to the soil as I always seem to get ant farms, as well as around the base of the pot for slugs. (It's no fun having those slimy trails across the carpet). Also, give them a dose of time release fertilizer like Osmocote 19-6-12 to maintain some nutrition over the winter. Repeat fertilizer in 4 months or so. Prune as needed for balance or reshaping, or just to make them easier to handle when bringing them in.
Another very important thing to be concerned about is the continuing drought. Fall is a great time to be planting new trees,shrubs and perennials, but we need to pay close attention to the watering needs of these new plantings. Older established plantings are going to need regular watering as well. I'm not suggesting watering everyday, but just be aware of your plants' needs. I usually walk the garden in the morning, and again after work to spot any wilting issues, then water as needed. I still suggest long, deep watering every so often (like every 3 or 4 days), as opposed to the everyday 5-10 minute short bursts. Now the exception would be new plantings of fescue & rye grass seed, and new fall plantings of pansies. I would also suggest, as the colder weather sets in, to generously mulch all plantings, even to a depth of 5-6 inches. I found that the heavier mulching dramatically minimized the stress that my garden was going through this summer. You don't want plants to be dehydrated through the winter, so it's important to water even in the winter when practical. Pay closer attention to evergreens (hollies, nandinas, azaleas, boxwood, laurels, etc as they can dehydrate faster in the winter.
Get out there and enjoy this weather while it lasts!
Steve Smith, the Dirt Dude
ssmith@southwoodnursery.com
September 26, 2011 Oh, What a Summer!
Now would be a good time to reevaluate all aspects of the landscape, including sun/shade patterns that may have changed since the 2007 ice storm. Many shade plants were exposed more to sun and therefore stressed and burned severly this summer. As you replace this plant material, it would be very wise to closely monitor sun and shade patterns throught the day then choose plant material that best fits those patterns. Unfortunately, many shade plants may have to be transplanted if the sun hits them anytime after 10:30-11:00 AM.
Also, reevaluate your sprinkler systems regarding timing, coverage and volume. I have seen so many broken heads and spraying of streets and sidewalks resulting in so much waste. Many systems were set to come on in the middle of the night, yet were not running when the plants needed moisture during the day. After saying that, many plants were scorched no matter how perfectly they were watered.
There was so much devastation on conifers like Blue Spruce, Arborvitae, Leyland Cypress and Dwarf Alberta Spruce this sumer that they we are now reevaluating whether or not they should be sold in our area. Look for several upright Junipers like Taylor (a narrow upright), Canaerti or Spartan Junipers, as well as upright Hollies like Fosters, Nellie Stevens, Oakland, Oakleaf or Liberty Holly to be suggested as replacements.
Many of the shrubs that got burned MAY recover, so don't give up hope yet. Do a light pruning now, removing the burned foliage, then in the spring (March/April) do additional pruning as need to reshape or rejuvenate.
After such a devistatingly hot summer, it is hard to find the motivation to plant or re-plant anything. But, don't lose hope! The fall is so far providing us with beautiful weather and fall is a great time to be planting things like trees, shrubs, perennials, bulbs and pansies. Not sure what to plant? Join us October 1st for a Southwood Experts Discussion on what to plant for a successful gardening experience. Click here for more info and to sign up.
Fall has arrived and the weather's fine!
Steve Smith, the Dirt Dude
ssmith@southwoodnursery.com
July 25, 2011 Surviving the Oklahoma Heat Wave
This summer's heat and drought is proving to be very trying for our trees and landscapes. (not to mention us) I, like most of you, have a lot of time and money invested in my garden and I hate just to see it shrivel up in the heat. So what can we do?
First and foremost, increase the depth and coverage of your mulch. 2-3 times width and depth should help. Check for sprinkler leaks and broken, plugged up or misdirected heads. Be more observant as to how you place and set your sprinkler so as not to water streets or driveways. Use soaker/drip hoses where possible as there is almost 0% evaporation during water application. Be sure to bury the hoses under the mulch as the hoses are usually black and the water inside may get to the scalding point. Water early morning and late evening for longer periods (I do 30 to 40 minutes). Deep soaking encourages deeper roots! Mow lawns 1/2 to 1 inch taller than normal (you should be at about 3 inches now). Do not fertilize anything but annuals, patio pots and hanging baskets, and then only with water soluble fertilizers at 1/2 strength.
Many plants have scorched leaves and some trees are even shedding. Except for evergreens, this doesn't mean they are dead. But, that is a red flag that they might need more water and mulch.
If we go to water rationing save your trees first, then foundation plantings and let the lawns go (Ok, it's hard for me to do too!). Bermuda/Zoysia lawns will turn brown and go dormant, but, in most cases, will recover. Fescue/Rye lawns, unfortunately, will have to be reseeded or resodded this fall (Hmmmmm astroturf is looking better and better).
Use individual sprinklers under trees to water under the whole canopy, not just a hose placed at the trunk. Use "Tree Gaters" or 5 gallon buckets with pin holes for slow soaks around younger trees (planted less than 5 years).
Hang in there!
Steve Smith, the Dirt Dude
ssmith@southwoodnursery.com
June 28, 2011 Lack of Fruit on Vegetable Plants
Many folks have called, emailed and come in with questions as to why their tomatoes, cucumbers and squashes are failing to produce fruit. Many reasons exist, but the primary ones are environmental (the heat), and most importantly, a lack of insect activity to move the pollen from the male to the female parts of the flowers. On the tomato plants, the male and female parts are on the same flower, so pollenization should go smoothly, you hope. Well, not necessarily. Wind does play a part, but pollen distribution is usually done by insects, primarily bees. If there are no bees to help move the pollen around, there may be no fertilization. On cucurbits, that is squashes, melons, and cucumbers there are separate male and female flowers, so insect (bee) activity is even more important.
As far as the heat affecting pollenization, if the nighttime temperatures are above 75 degrees, that affects the viability of the pollen, as well as the amount produced.
So, what can we do to see our plants get pollinated? Minimize spraying while bees are active (usually in the morning) and plant shrubs, perennials and ground covers in our gardens that attract bees. Things like Abelia, Hyssop, Rosemary, Lavender and clovers are bee favorites.
You can also mechanically help spread the pollen with a soft bristled paint brush, being sure to do it in the morning when the pollen is most viable. Spraying with Blossom Set will help on tomatoes, but will not help on squash, cucumber, or melons as there are separate flowers on different locations in the plants.
May your Garden always be fertile,
Steve Smith, the Dirt Dude
ssmith@southwoodnursery.com
April 20, 2011 Cold Damage on Hardy Plants
The winter has taken its toll on many of Tulsa’s trees, shrubs and perennials. With 3 record cold temperatures, the cold tolerances of many plants were exceeded. Plants that have generally received damage (winter burn) were Photinia, Nandina, Boxwood, Azaleas, Laurels, Leyland Cypress, Arborvitae and some Hollies. Many deciduous plants like spireas, weigela, Loropetalum and Crape Myrtle were damaged as well. Many spring flowering trees like Redbuds, Dogwoods, Crabapples and the like had many of their flower buds also damaged. Brown or black foliage and stems, bark splitting on the lower trunks and slowness of new spring growth were typical symptoms of cold damaged plants.
But, although this may sound severe and discouraging, many of these plants likely will regrow with a little patients, pruning where needed, and a little fertilizer. This is the best time to prune back many of those plants, as they should have plenty of time to regrow what was lost. When in doubt though, give all plants the benefit of the doubt until the first week of May, then prune back all dead or weak branches to healthy growth.
Don't lose hope, spring is here!
Steve Smith, The Dirt Dude
ssmith@southwoodnursery.com
March 18, 2011 Sweetening your soil with Lime
Typically, in the spring, people feel the need to apply lime to everything as that’s what granddad did. “Lime helps sweeten the soil” he would say. Well what does that mean and what type of lime do I use?
Excessive application of nitrogen fertilizers can acidify the soils over time. Farmers use to inject ammonium nitrate (34-0-0) or urea (46-0-0) fertilizers to their soils in the spring for good crop growth, then periodically apply lime to “sweeten” or neutralize the acidic soil.
Soils in regions of heavier rainfalls (in excess of 30-40 inches), like the Pacific Northwest or the Gulf Coast tend to be more acidic as the rains leaches out the calcium & magnesium resulting in acidic soils. Remember lime is Calcium Carbonate.
So, how do you know when to apply lime? You must have your soil tested to know that! The best time to apply it is in the early spring or fall. What form of lime do I apply? Agricultural lime or calcitic lime is the most common form and comes from natural deposits of limestone. Dolomitic lime contains a high percentage of magnesium. The results are similar when treating your soils as far as raising the pH (soil acidity). Hydrated lime (calcium hydroxide), is also called builders lime or slacked lime and should NOT be used in gardening as it is very caustic. Pelletized lime is simply ground up limestone with a cementing agent added to form “pellets” for ease of application. Also, too much lime can be just as harmful as too little causing nutritional deficiencies.
Sulpher, on the other hand, is used to acidify the soil should it become too alkaline. The rule of thumb on how much to apply is 1-2 pounds of lime per 100 square feet to alter the ph 1 point up the scale. Alternatively 1-2 pounds of Sulpher must be added per 100 square feet to LOWER the acidity 1 point. Changing the soil acidity does take time and should be reevaluated in 6-8 months.
Helpful gardening hint…. If you want your Hydrangeas to have blue flowers, add sulpher, preferably Aluminum Sulphate to the soil. If you want the flowers to be pink, add lime.
Steve Smith, The Dirt Dude
ssmith@southwoodnursery.com
January 13, 2011 Deciduous Plants for Winter Interest
Most Southerners prefer evergreens for their long season of color, but many deciduous plants offer a different, special beauty, a beauty especially needed in the dreary winter months. Many plants provide colorful bark, twisted stems, unusual forms or winter fruit that will add to winters' subtle beauty. Here is a list of plant material and the interest it can add.
- Heritage Birch has white exfoliating bark.
- Burning Bush has interesting “winged” branches and red fruit (if the Cardinals don’t get to it first)
- Japanese Maple “Coral Bark” (left) has beautiful coral/red bark that almost glows.
- Crabapples have many species that have persistent winter fruit.
- Flowering Cherry has deep reddish/burgundy bark.
- Contorted Filbert has very twisted and curly branches and yellow catkins in early spring.
- Crape Myrtle mature tree forms have exceptional color/texture in the bark and seed pods.
- Dogwood “Red Twig” obviously has red branches that are quite striking coming up through the snow.
- Hydrangeas hold onto their dried flowers and provide interest (stripping off the dead leaves can make the plant look neater, too)
- Ornamental Grasses' foliage and seed tufts will turn brown but hold their interesting shape and texture.
- Ornamental Persimmon has exceptionally large orange fruit and is very showy in winter.
- Weeping Cherry, Mulberry, Crabapple and Redbud can provide unique form in the snow.
- Winterberry Holly (right) and Deciduous Holly have berries that are very persistent throughout the winter.
NOTE….We are still exceptionally dry, so water thoroughly as temperatures will allow.
Welcome 2011!
Steve Smith, The Dirt Dude
ssmith@southwoodnursery.com
December 3, 2010 Natural Holiday Decor
Well, the holidays are upon us and nothing adds more to the sights and SMELLS of the season than fresh greens used in and around the home. For extended freshness, however, you need to:
* Always choose greenery whose needles are soft and supple and hold on well to the branches.
* Presoak before using in warm or tepid water for about an hour to hydrate foliage as much as possible.
* Let greens drip dry, then spray with an antitranspirant like "Wilt Stop" to reduce moisture loss. Clear hair spray works well too.
* Keep away from heat or an open flame.
* Avoid direct sun as mush as possible, the more sun they get, the faster they dry out.
* Always store your greenery in the shade until ready to use.
Also, the garden provides a great source of “natural” decorations. I have used Nandina, Holly, and Juniper (foliage and berries), Magnolia (paint the foliage Christmas colors), Ornamental Grasses (trim and use natural OR paint Christmas colors) and Pine or Spruce (foliage and cones). Even colorful twigs like red twig dogwood or curly willow are great accents. And how much fresher can it be than to literally cut it the day you need it. Don’t forget to spray it as well with an antitranspirant like ‘Wilt Pruf’ or even hair spray to seal the foliage and minimize dehydration.
If you still choose to use a “cut” tree for your Christmas tree, you can use the same tips as keeping your greens fresh. If you choose a “living” tree, that is one with the roots still attached, you can use an antitranspirant on the foliage as well. And be sure to only use the cooler miniature or LED lights so as not to generate a lot of heat on the foliage. Also, keep in mind, the tree should not be left in the house for more than 7-10 days as it may become “tenderized” by the warmer temps indoors and the foliage may get a little yellow as well.
Happy Holidays!
Steve Smith, The Dirt Dude
ssmith@southwoodnursery.com |