 
Steve Smith "The Dirt Dude"
July 1, 2010 New Fence Brings New Ideas
My neighbor and I have just completed a new fence between our yards and we decided to go to an 8 foot level. This is no special news, except it dawned on me that I have a great opportunity, since the fence is right next to my deck, to create a wall of garden art or a place to show off some of my outdoor garden stuff.
I have all kinds of interesting things, both new and old, like a collage of old unused tools, a garden thermometer, a collection of wind chimes, an old Roman Face wall fountain ( I don't care if it works, it just looks neat on the fence), a sunface....you get the picture. I'm even going to mount an outdoor, oscillating wall fan so I can enjoy a nice relaxing drink outside when I get home from work without dying of heat exhaustion.
It seems most people have a blank fence somewhere crying to be a focal point, so use your imagination and display all your neat garden trinkets and plants too. A blank fence is a great vessel for a vining, climbing plant like Clematis or a Climbing Rose. 
Also, nothing is more refreshing in the dog days of summer than a water feature in the garden. They can range greatly in look, price and size, but there is bound to be something that fits your garden perfectly. You can even create your own water feature in a pot; check out our handout on "Creating a Water Garden in a Pot". It really is very easy to do and many times takes less than an hour to assemble.
Embracing Summer,
Steve Smith, The Dirt Dude
ssmith@southwoodnursery.com
June 1, 2010 Favorite Hot Weather Performers
Summer is almost here, and that means its time for the hot weather plants to really show their stuff. Here are my absolute favorite (and why) hot weather performers.
ANNUALS
Sweet Potato vine (vigorous, bright and tough)
Mandevilla Vines (large showy flowers bloom all summer)
Sun Coleus (colorful, interesting foliage and the butterflies love it)
Supertunias (tougher than most petunias, heat tolerant, lots of colors to choose from)
Celosia (I like the bronze leaf with the red plume, it adds a pop of color)
Pentas (great for butterflies and very heat tolerant)
Begonias (I know they're common place, but when established they "keep on goin" like the battery bunny!)
Yellow Joseph Coat (tough, heat tolerant and makes a great border)
Annual Verbena (tough, heat tolerant and great for butterflies)
Lantana (tough, heat tolerant great for butterflies)
Can you tell I love butterflies?
PERENNIALS Oh, there are so many. How to whittle it down?
Coreopsis "Zagreb" (good rebloomer if deadheaded)
Rudbekia (most varieties make a good summer show and finches like the seed)
Verbena (very heat tolerant with summer-long blooms)
Nepeta or Catmint (will rebloom if trimmed back, little maintenance required and great for butterflies)
Lavender (very heat tolerant, blooms well, provides fragrance to the garden)
Gailardia "Arizona Sun" (good rebloomer if deadheaded and great for butterflies)
Salvia Greggi or Autumn Sage (very heat tolerant and great for hummingbirds)
Hardy Hibiscus (HUGE dinnerplate-sized flowers most of the summer and great for hummingbirds)
Lamb's Ears (Beautiful soft greyish foliage mkaes a nice accent)
Sedum "Angelina" (Superior golden-yellow ground cover does well in the ground and in pots)
For you shade lovers:
Heuchera or Coral Bells (Most varieties provide striking foliage color.But, keep moist on hottest days)
Hostas (What can I say? So many colorful varieties provide pop for the shade)
Autumn Fern (Evergreen and tougher than you might think for a fern)
SHRUBS
Crape Myrtle (yes, there are spreading, miniature and dwarf forms which are all good)
Golden Spirea (colorful from April to October)
Loropetalum (showy purple foliage adds a pop to the garden. Available in dwarf to standard sizes)
Abelia (Many have colorful leaves and flower all summer. Great for humming birds and butterflies)
Knock Out Roses (the name is self explanatory)
Hydrangeas like the "Endless Summer" series (Beautiful blooms in the shade all summer)
Repeat Blooming Azaleas like the "Encore" series (More than just your standard Azalea)
All Ornamental Grasses (Ok, maybe they're not technically SHRUBS, but any variety has its place in the garden)
TREES
Crape Myrtle (all sizes, colors and varieties are my favorites)
Vitex or Chaste Tree (beautiful lavender blue flower spikes in summer which will rebloom if deadheaded.)
Goldenrain Trees (what a spectacular summer show)
Althea or Rose of Sharon (looks like a hibiscus and blooms all summer)
Water, water, water!
Steve Smith, The Dirt Dude
ssmith@southwoodnursery.com
April 19, 2010 Last Average Frost Date Has Passed, And we Made
it Through the Winter!
Aren't we glad spring is finally here! I think we've seen our last freeze!
(I hope that doesn't come back to bite me!) It usually happens somewhere between April 1st to the 15th, but can be as late as the 25th. Remember last year we hit around 25 degrees on April 23rd? So many gardeners had to replant. I never plant my garden until after the 25th as I just don't have time (or the budget) to do it twice.
There are SO MANY exciting and new varieties of trees, shrubs, perennials and annuals out there now, and I encourage all gardeners to give them a try. We all have our favorites and are reluctant to venture out and try something different but I can assure you many of these new species are well worth the effort. Check out all the new varieties Southwood is growing this year.
The spring bulb blooming season for daffodils, tulips, hyacinths & crocus is pretty much over. Although it is very tempting, don't remove the foliage, instead allow it to naturally yellow and wither up. The foliage produces the food and energy to build the bulb so it will bloom properly the following season.
For extra interest when planting up your patio pots, think outside the box. In other words don't plant just annuals. Mix in dwarf shrubs, perennials, ornamental grasses, or even dwarf trees for a bolder look
and texture.
Spring has Sprung!
Steve Smith, The Dirt Dude
ssmith@southwoodnursery.com
March 11, 2010 Spring Pruning of Grasses and Flowering Shrubs
Is it time to trim the grass yet? No, I'm not talking about your lawn, but the ornamental type grasses like Pampas, Maiden or Fountain grass. If you haven't done it by now (like me as I like that look in the winter) now is the time to do so, BEFORE they come out of dormancy. Trim them down to about 6-12" tall.
If you have, what I call pseudo-ornamental grass like Liriope (monkey grass) or Mondo Grass, you can trim them anytime as well. Mine are in large beds so I am able to use my lawnmower (be sure the blades are SHARP). I set my mower at its highest setting and that seems to be just the right height. A good sharp pair of scissors also works well in smaller areas or borders. I don't recommend using a weedeater (although it is sometimes easier) since it tears and shreds the foliage so badly. You can also divide all grasses anytime now.
Many perennials do best when divided in the spring. Hostas, Mums, Rudbekia, Dianthus, Coreopsis, and Cannas among others, should be done just as new spring growth is barely out of the ground (so you can tell where they are). But be sure not to over divide! Maybe split plants into thirds or quarters at the most. Get more information here.
There still is confusion about when to prune flowering trees and shrubs. Remember, the rule of thumb is----If it's SPRING BLOOMING, prune AFTER flowering. If it is SUMMER BLOOMING, prune BEFORE flowering. Of course, there are always exceptions like the newer repeat blooming Endless Summer Hydrangeas and Encore Azaleas. Just prune lightly as needed when needed to maintain shape.
Spring is coming soon!
Steve Smith, The Dirt Dude
ssmith@southwoodnursery.com
February 2, 2010 Indoor Flowering Plants and Cole Crop Veggies
Boy, are we tired of the winter blahs, or what? Here are some common flowering plants that are available now that can help liven up the indoors. The bright colors and big blooms of these easy indoor plants will help keep that spring fever at bay for just a little while longer.
Cyclamen, Kalanchoe, Cinereria, Primrose, Bromeliad, Orchid, forced tulips and daffodils and occasionally Lilies are available and are great choices for even the most novice gardener. These are all easy to take care of (yes, even Orchids) and the blooms
can last up to several months. The common denominator for success with flowering plants indoors is a nice, bright, sunny location. (Sun, you say? What is that??? I know, I miss it too.)
Also, mid February in the Tulsa area is the kickoff time for planting some early vegetable crops. Varieties like Asparagus, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Head Lettuce, Onions, Potatoes and Rhubarb can tolerate the cooler temperatures of late winter and can be planted as early as  February 15. These varieties are best started from plants or roots instead of seeds. Other cold tolerant veggies like Carrots, Swiss Chard, Leaf Lettuce, Peas, Radish, Spinach and Turnips are incredibly easy to start from seed, indoors or out. Click here to get the OSU Extension handout called "Oklahoma Garden Planning Guide" which gives tips and info about planting dates, spacing, days to harvest, etc.
I've had several calls about what to do with the plants that were so heavily bent over with the ice and snow. First, do not throw hot water on them to melt the ice! Instead, gently and very carefully knock what snow you can off the branches, then allow the ice to melt in its own sweet time. As long as the branches were allowed to bend and distort, then recover slowly, minimum damage will be done.
For all who want a beautiful, weed-free lawn this year, Listen Here! February 15 to March 15 is the ideal time to apply weed preventer to the lawn to keep many summer weeds like crabgrass, foxtail, clover pigweed, spurge and many, many others from germinating. If you look closely at the lawn now (if you can see thru the snow) you will see chickweed, henbit and other weeds emerging. Those should have been controlled last fall, but can still be dealt with. If we get any days above 65 degrees with sun, those existing broadleaf weeds can be sprayed with any 2,4,D based products with 'Trimec' being the best. With Bermuda and Zoysia being brown and dormant now, you can control most all weeds with any glysophate based product like 'Roundup'.
Is it spring yet?
Steve Smith, The Dirt Dude
ssmith@southwoodnursery.com
January 6, 2010
After the excitement of the holidays is over, it is usually difficult to be doing ANYTHING in the garden, especially when motivation (or lack thereof) and weather play big roles in accomplishing anything. This  year is no exception. I do get several calls still about winter protection and watering. Fortunately, we've had plenty of moisture with the snow. Good hydration before a severe cold spell is really important. Hopefully by now you have applied plenty of any type of mulch for protection of shallow rooted plants like azaleas and perennials. I like to use leaf mulch, which I have plenty of, and if I need more I surreptitiously steal it from my neighbors (I don't think they mind). Also, did you know that snow is a good insulator and protector of plants? I know it's a pain, but for the plants, more snow would be better.
 When you've thrown out your poinsettias and your paperwhites and amaryllis have all finished blooming, you might consider forcing branches from your  flowering shrub garden for some winter color. This can really help you cope with the winter brown garden blues. It is an easy process and really gets you excited about the prospects of the upcoming spring. Not to mention, it looks incredibly classy and stylish in any type of decor. The easiest branches to force indoors are forsythia, quince, pear, crabapple and pussy willow. Click here for printable instructions on how to force spring blooming branches.
If you are an avid gardener and (1)have moved into a new home, (2) have an older (more than 6 years) azalea planting, (3) are planning to do a vegetable garden or, (4) have a lawn that seems non responsive to fertilizing, it is probably time to do a soil test. Although, soil tests rarely reveal the cause of decline or death of trees, shrubs, perennials, veggies, lawns etc. What your test will tell you is levels of nitrogen (N), phosphorous (P), potassium (K) and soil acidity in each test. This can help you determine what (if any) types of soil additives or amendments you might need to get the best results possible. In the majority of cases, problems with plants are due to insects, diseases, poor growing conditions, herbicides or simply the wrong location (a sun demanding plant in too much shade). All of these problems can be addressed in other ways.
Here is what to do in taking a soil sample:
1. Take samples from 3 to 6 inches deep, removing any twigs, rocks, roots etc from the soil.
2. Each area of interest, such as lawns, vegetable gardens, azalea beds, etc should have separate test samples. (about 1 pound)
3. Be sure to take random samples from a particular area and mix them up for a good representation
4. Place DRY soil in a clean container and label the location in the yard from where it was taken
5. Take your sample to the OSU Extension office, 4116 East 15th, Tulsa, Ok for processing. This takes about 2-3 weeks and currently costs $10.00 per sample.
November 30, 2009 Fall Bulbs and Holiday Greenery
Fall planting season for bulbs is now upon us. Hopefully you've purchased your bulbs (tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, crocus etc.) as selection is best in October and early November. Now that the weather has become more consistently cold, here are some planting tips:
* Choose firm bulbs free of mold or mildew.
* Plant in late fall after first freeze (usually 5th November. It is late this year) and before January 1st.
* Plant bulbs to a depth equaling three times the height of the bulb.
* Space small bulbs 2-4 inches apart, 4-6 inches for larger bulbs.
* To figure how many tulip bulbs you'll need for a given area, figure about 5 bulbs per square foot.
* Be sure your soil is well-drained and well prepared. Bulbs don't do well in clay or compacted soils.
* Add bulb food, bone meal or superphosphate to the soil, mixing it in as you plant.
* Bulbs must be watered in thoroughly when planted and regularly through the dormant season.
* Blooming time can be prolonged by planting several varieties or species of bulbs, for example..
Crocus is usually the earliest to bloom (late Feb), followed by daffodils, hyacinths, tulips (there are early, mid and late season varieties) alliums, dutch iris and lycoris (naked ladies) which will bloom in August.
Also, decorating for the holidays is upon us and using fresh greens is always a wonderful holiday tradition. Not only do they look better than artificial greens, they provide your home with the wonderful aroma of the holidays. Here are some tips to keep those greens as fresh as possible:
* Always choose greenery whose needles are soft and supple and hold on well to the branches.
* Presoak before using in warm or tepid water for about an hour to hydrate foliage as much as possible.
* Let greens drip dry, then spray with an antitranspirant like "Wilt Stop" to reduce moisture loss. Clear hair spray works well too.
* Keep away from heat or an open flame.
* Avoid direct sun as mush as possible, the more sun they get, the faster they dry out.
* Always store your greenery in the shade until ready to use.
Happy Holidays!
Steve Smith, The Dirt Dude
ssmith@southwoodnursery.com
October 30, 2009 Fall Foliage Favorites
Fall is a wonderful time not only to work in the garden, but also to just enjoy the colorful show that mother nature puts on this time of year. Along with an especially cool October, the fall foliage in Tulsa is particularly vibrant this year. It has been several years since we have seen the depth of color that we are seeing this year. All of this color inspired me to come up with my favorite Tulsa fall color contributors.
SCARLET OAK - One of the showiest of Oaks. It is a hard to find variety, but worth the effort and the wait.
NORTHERN RED OAK - Also has a consistent foliar display, and is easier to come by .
SHUMARD RED OAK - A sturdy tree and good performer in Tulsa gardens.
RED MAPLE - Fabulous crimson foliage and so many good varieties to choose from.
SUGAR MAPLE - Displays some of the prettiest yellows and oranges. (Right)
ASH - Look for Urbanite ash because of it's mahogany red to yellow foliage.
BLACK GUM - No kin to Sweet Gum. A very non-descript tree, but the bright red fall foliage will dazzle you.
GINKGO - In my mind, the most vivid of yellow fall foliage. This tree should be planted more. (Below)
CHINESE PISTACHE - Probably one of my most favorite trees for Tulsa gardens. Fall foliage is an electric crimson to yellow.
JAPANESE MAPLE - Beautiful any time of the year, and so many types to choose from.
ORNAMENTAL PEAR - Don't buy the "Bradford" variety, but "Cleveland" and "Trinity" will dazzle you spring or fall.
CRAPE MYRTLE - Soooo many choices now for summer flower color, and the fall foliage on most is spectacular.
DOGWOOD - A Tulsa favorite because of its spring show, but the fall crimson foliage and red berries are hard to beat.
BURNING BUSH - You can bet on this shrub to dazzle you every fall. It looks like it's ablaze.
OAKLEAF HYDRANGEA - Bold spring display, exceptional deep crimson fall foliage.
SUMAC - Look for "Staghorn", "Cut-leaf", or "Tiger-eye" For a dazzling crimson to yellow foliage.
BOSTON IVY - Spectacular crimson foliage that will not damage walls. (Right)
VIRGINIA CREEPER - An invasive vine, but the crimson fall foliage is hard to beat.
Choosing just these few favorites was difficult with the vast amount of beautiful trees, shrubs and perennials that offer great fall interest. If you have pictures of your favorite fall foliage displays, feel free to send them along and we will post them here with your name!
Until next time,
Steve Smith, The Dirt Dude
ssmith@southwoodnursery.com
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