Planting or Transplanting

       You can still plant trees and larger shrubs anytime, weather permitting. Take care planting broadleaf evergreens like azaleas, boxwood, laurel, holly etc. as they tend to dry out quicker in the winter when newly planted. Plant what you can realistically maintain, insuring to water when needed through the winter and be sure to mulch generously. Hold off planting smaller shrubs, perennials and ground covers till March.

 

       Transplanting of deciduous shrubs and trees is permissible, weather permitting, but hold off on evergreens and perennials until late February or March.

 

Fertilizing

       Deep feed(Apply fertilizer 6-8" below the soil surface) trees now, but wait until spring to fertilize shrubs, perennials, ground covers and lawns. House plants should be fed with a time-release fertilizer only for the winter.

 

Pruning

       Prune as needed for shaping or balance on established trees, but keep it to a minimum on newly planted trees and shrubs, say less than 20% of the overall volume. Light pruning is fine on roses and perennials also, again no more than 20-30%. Do not prune spring flowering shrubs like Azalea, Forsythia, Quince, and Spirea until after they flower.

 

Mulching

       Although it's best to mulch everything in your landscape, it's especially important on newer plantings to protect young roots, moderate soil temperatures, and aid in moisture conservation. Organic mulches are best like cedar, cypress or pine, even leaves work well. If you do use leaves, be sure to chop them up before use like with a lawnmower or mulching machine.

 

Composting

       Clean up all yard debris, especially from gutters and storms drains and compost where possible. This is a great source of organic matter and natural nutrition for boosting rose, flower or vegetable gardens. Existing compost piles should be turned periodically to oxygenate and have some nitrogen fertilizer added to feed the soil bacteria.

 

Lawns

       Winter weeds may be controlled in Bermuda or Zoysia lawns with Roundup (Glysophate) if temps are above 65 degrees and it is sunny. Do not do this on Fescue or Rye lawns as Roundup will kill vegetation that is still green.

 

Watering

       Watering is just as important in the winter as in the summer. If Mother Nature doesn't provide adequate moisture throughout the winter, try to do a thorough soak, 20-30 minutes, at least twice a month. New plantings may require more frequent attention. Most winter damage occurs because of dehydration.

 

Houseplants

       Try to locate houseplants in the brightest room possible and use a humidifier to keep the air moist. We naturally have low humidities in the winter and the running of heaters makes it worse.

 

       Keep the foliage clean by rinsing in the sink or shower. Dust buildup on the foliage reduces the plants ability to absorb light and will ultimately stress the plant.

 

       Frequently check for pests like mealybugs, whitefly, aphids, scale and spidermites. Sticky residue on the foliage or table may be a giveaway. Use Horticultural Oil, Insecticidal soap and/or a systemic granular for control. Water on an "as needed" basis with room or body temperature water. So many houseplants stress from over watering because they are watered too frequently, like every week. Use enough water to saturate the soil mass and drain out the bottom. Do not let plants sit in water for very long. Pour off the excess after 30 minutes or so.

 

Have a Fireplace?

       Wood ashes are a good source of potassium...valuable for root development and overall plant strength. Wood ash is somewhat alkaline so don't apply more than about a pound per 100 square feet.

 

 

Don't forget our feathered friends in this cold and dreary season!